If you've ever worn a promotional t-shirt, a tournament jersey or a tote bag handed out at an event, there's a good chance the visual was printed using screen printing. It's the oldest textile printing technique still widely used today, and it remains unmatched for one very specific purpose: large runs of the same visual.
How screen printing works
The principle behind screen printing is based on the stencil. A screen — an aluminium frame stretched with a very fine polyester mesh fabric — is prepared so that ink can only pass through in the areas corresponding to the design to be printed.
The preparation of this screen, called screen making, is the key step in the process. The design is transferred onto the screen fabric using a photosensitive emulsion. The areas exposed to ultraviolet light harden and become impermeable to ink. The protected areas (corresponding to the design) remain porous. The result is a high-precision stencil.
During printing, the screen is placed onto the textile to be printed — most often stretched over a platen (a flat wooden template representing a torso). Ink is deposited onto the screen, then pulled across its entire surface using a squeegee. The ink passes through the open mesh of the stencil and is deposited onto the fabric. The item then passes through an infrared drying tunnel that cures the ink — that is, permanently bonds it to the fabric fibres.
Each colour in the design requires a separate screen. For a three-colour visual, you need three screens, three passes and precise registration between each colour. It is this system of successive "layers" that gives screen printing its characteristic finish: bold, opaque, sharply separated colours.
In textile screen printing workshops, the screens are typically mounted on a carousel — a rotating platform that allows colour passes to be carried out on several items in parallel, considerably speeding up the production rate.
The advantages of screen printing
An unbeatable unit cost in large quantities
This is screen printing's number one argument. Manufacturing each screen represents a fixed cost (preparation, emulsion, registration). But once the screen is ready, each additional print costs almost nothing in materials. This is what makes screen printing increasingly economical as the quantity grows. On a run of 200 or 500 pieces, the unit cost of the marking becomes negligible compared to any other technique.
Vivid and opaque colours
Screen printing deposits a layer of ink that is significantly thicker than digital printing techniques. The result: vivid, saturated and perfectly opaque colours, even on dark textiles. A white logo on a black t-shirt, for example, will stand out with an opacity and density that no other technique can match.
Exceptional durability
Screen printing ink penetrates the fabric fibres and is fixed through curing. The result is a marking that withstands dozens of washes without fading, cracking or peeling. This is one of the reasons why screen printing remains the preferred technique for workwear, uniforms and sports clothing worn intensively.
Compatible with all textiles
Screen printing works just as well on cotton as on polyester, blends, light or dark fabrics, thick or thin materials. It also applies to many accessories: tote bags, bags, towels, caps. This versatility makes it a universal technique.
Special-effect inks
Beyond standard inks, screen printing allows the use of special-effect inks that are impossible to reproduce with other techniques: metallic inks (gold, silver), glitter inks, puff inks (which create a 3D relief), phosphorescent or fluorescent inks. These special effects are highly sought after for promotional items and limited editions.
The price does not depend on the size of the visual
Unlike other techniques where the price increases with the marking surface area, in screen printing the size of the print has no significant impact on cost. A large visual on the back costs roughly the same as a small chest logo, as long as the number of colours remains the same. This is an important advantage for clubs and associations that want bold visuals without blowing their budget.
The limitations of screen printing
A minimum quantity required
The cost of manufacturing the screens (one per colour) represents a fixed investment that is only justified from a certain volume upwards. Below approximately 50 pieces, the unit cost becomes too high compared to digital printing techniques such as DTF or DTG. Screen printing is therefore not suited to single-unit orders or small runs.
A limited number of colours
Each colour in the design requires a separate screen, registration and an additional pass. A 1- or 2-colour visual is economical and quick to produce. At 3 or 4 colours, the cost and complexity increase significantly. Beyond that, the additional cost can become prohibitive. Screen printing is therefore particularly suited to logos in solid colour fills, not to highly multicoloured visuals.
No gradients, no photos
Screen printing works with solid colour fills. Gradients, blends, subtle nuances and photographic visuals cannot be faithfully reproduced. It is technically possible to simulate gradients using halftone screens (similar to those in offset printing), but the result is approximate and is not suitable for visuals requiring faithful reproduction.
No individual customisation
Every item in a screen-printed run carries exactly the same marking. It is not possible to add a first name, a number or any other variable element from one item to the next. For individual customisation, screen printing needs to be complemented by another technique (flocking or DTF).
Significant setup time
Manufacturing the screens, registering the colours and running alignment tests require a significant setup time before production can begin. This is a time investment that pays off over volume, but penalises small orders.
Screen printing vs DTF: when to choose what?
Screen printing and DTF (Direct to Film) are complementary, not competing. Here is a simple guide:
Fewer than 50 pieces, multicoloured visuals or individual customisation: DTF is more suitable. No fixed setup cost, unlimited number of colours, single-unit production.
50 pieces and above, same visual on all items, 1 to 3 colours: screen printing becomes more economical and delivers superior colour rendering, particularly on dark textiles.
The two techniques can also be combined: a run of screen-printed t-shirts for a tournament, topped up with DTF flocking of each participant's first name.
DAGOBA offers screen printing for your bulk orders
On DAGOBA online shops, items are manufactured to order using DTF and embroidery — techniques perfectly suited to individual orders. But for your large quantity needs — tournaments, events, giveaways, kitting out a sports school — DAGOBA also offers screen printing from 50 pieces, as a direct order outside the shop.
This service lets you obtain very low unit prices on identical runs: tournament t-shirts, promotional bags, training jerseys for an entire sports school. Contact us to get a quote tailored to your project.
For a complete overview of all marking techniques, read our article Textile marking: DTF, embroidery, flocking or screen printing or visit our help centre.
